Days 1 & 2: Harare

I arrived in Harare around 6 p.m. on the 31st of March. Nina's plane landed just before mine, so we met right away at the baggage claim. Dad snapped some photos of us coming through arrivals, but he forgot the USB cable for his camera, so I'm afraid they're trapped on his camera until we're back in the States. I don't know what it is about dad and taking pictures off his camera -- must be something to do with a memory of cameras as analog devices!

It was surreal meeting Nina. We came back to Paul's gorgeous home and had a nice late dinner.

The first day, April 1, we toured around Harare to mom and dad's old stomping grounds -- their first apartment, and two of their old businesses: Strachans Photo Pharmacy, and Bell's Pharmacy Belvidere.

We also visited Nina's home here in Harare, that she now rents, as well as her housekeeper, Loveness. Loveness kept saying, "oh he looks just like boss..." when she saw me, obviously referring to Michael, my biological father. Nina's home here is so cute -- an original colonial home in the center of Harare not far from Mugabe's palace.

Today, the 2nd, we drove out to pick up Simon at Charles Prince Airport -- the place as if someone pressed pause in 1962 - it's virtually unchanged. It was haunting, actually.

We then drove out to Darwindale, and Jennifer's old farm, Woodrow, which is now broken up amongst 47 pals of the current owner. The land, 1200 acres that used to yield massive crops of tobacco, are now mostly dormant and the jacoranda-lined lane leading into the main farm house strewn with goats, 3-year-olds and chest-high weeds. The most heartbreaking part was the sight of Jennifer's old farm house, 15 years ago a glorious oasis, now chain-link-fenced off and guarded by a scrawny early 30s guy and a 1-year-old toddler. Simon spoke to him in Shonna, and asked if we could have a look around as it once was his relatives' farm, Jennifer. The guy said he understood our circumstances, but couldn't allow us to trespass. He said he had heard Jennifer had passed away, and was sorry to hear that. He said if he got in trouble with the boss, though, he would have nowhere to live. Simon said that he and Nina had nowhere to go, either.

And with that, we turned around, piled back in the car, and drove off down the broken-down, Jacoranda-lined lane. We couldn't see the farm house up close, or see where Michael was buried. It was heartbreaking to see Nina and Simon turn around and walk away from something that was once so beautiful, and the center of their lives. Fortunately, I managed to snap a pic of the chain and fence in front of the house before the "caretaker" intercepted us.

It was a sullen day, indeed. I'm glad Nina had Simon there with her as she needed the support. She hadn't visited the farm in 10-11 years. Jennifer lost it in 1995.

We also saw Mugabe's motorcade this morning on the way to the airport. At least 20 police on motorcycles, 15 new E class cop cars, and then his mercedes motorcade.